All posts by Dragana

Greece. So easy to love it.

Lights are lit in Mouresi village. Hills of Pelion shine in the serene darkness of summer. Here and there people`s laughter and dog bark join the quiet cicada song, just to remind everyone present that this is a place full of life. Maybe currently peaceful, maybe dark, but at the same time full of warm Greek blood that will pulsate again loudly as soon as the morning comes!Yet, the morning can wait. Fresh air. Curves of the  village road, going upwards and passing the old houseyards. Lights in the windows shine out all the beauty of families gathered together under the same roof, enjoying one more good summer night and collecting all the good that can be used in the days to come.

Some are sitting at the balcony, sipping probably one of those tasty homemade drinks and vividly commenting something. If they see someone rare walking on the road under a street lamp, all eyes are checking who this might be. No matter of the finding whether it is someone known or a stranger, unavoidable, friendly “Kalispera!” is exchanged between the road and the balcony.Night swimming in the local swimming pool. Cicada song, fresh air, peacefulness…enough to wish that this night lasts for at least a couple of long summer months!

After a few hours, however, the sun is again unmistakably out, sending its best warm greetings. Air conditioning is on as the car rolls down the mounting road, passing stone houses, neat and colourful courtyards, people, animals (!goats on the road), trees and fruit yards, parked cars with tires covered by cardboard and windshield with aluminium cover over.

The dusty road is bathing in the warm sunshine, while continuing further along the coast, in curves. Sometimes it ends up in a forest, according to a confused GPS. Or goes around the hill, turning into a walking (hiking?) path, it is going up and down and down again, and it gets so steep that those driving  lighter car need to catch some breath. What is waiting down there? End of the road? Some steep stairs? In that case, how to go back?? And it is so narrow, that just a small move to the side might leave a scratch on the car. You really do not want to have a scratch on a rented car.

Phew, managed to get out of the narrow road jungle! The car can be parked safely close to the beautiful Mylopotamos Beach. The local bar promises best beach cocktails and light summer lunch. The crowd on the beach is growing constantly, until all the best and next best towel places are taken. The swimmers are swimming, the divers are diving, the snorkelers are snorkeling and the brave ones are jumping off the tall rock nearby.

The water, warm, clean and beautiful, is carrying away all the fatigue and stress leftovers from the past working season and everything feels balanced and in place again. Some salty water is dripping  from the shoulders down to the pages of this summer`s “vacation book”, while the people on the neighboring towels are probably discussing about the best word to fit into a puzzle. People do deserve this kind of “life problems” a couple of days in a year. Whoever decides about it: let them have that.

Speaking of the Higher Power, as the road turns westwards and more inland, the air gets cooler and somehow mystical. The highway stretches ahead, passing modern solar panel farms and soon magnificent rock formations can be seen in the horizon.  There are some that have only heard before of the Meteora rocks governing the central Greece. Now they can be seen in the distance and people are right; they do look like part of some Sci-Fi  landscape!

Entering a small town, it is just enough to look through the window and up (if not driving!) and lose breath – surrounding stone masses and colourful shades that spread all over their surface,  feel like they are constantly watching everyone around. Numerous holes, as all-seeing eyes, seem to keep the area safe and there is a sense of both leisureness and serenity at the foot of Meteora.

In six out of 24 monasteries that are still active, monks and nuns live their peaceful lives. In a female monastery, nuns sell herbs and honey, that are said to heal or at least help with different types of pain. In one of the inner courtyards, two workers are cutting a big piece of glass, working on the maintenance of the building. They are standing in the middle of a very tidy and pleasant flower garden. Thousands of visitors are climbing daily thousands of steps, breathing heavily fresh mountain air and marveling the surroundings.

Back in the village, after getting more insight from visiting the rocky giants, the monasteries awake feelings of respect on a much deeper level. The people that live there and devote their lives to keeping the place alive in the modern times today deserve that respect.

The next day starts with a good breakfast in one of the local bakeries that sell fantastic pastries, joined with a cup of black Greek coffee. Some guides suggest  visiting the Theopetra cave outside the Meteora village. The area witnesses prehistoric settlements between 5000 and up to 50 000 years ago! It is good if this is one of those days when the cave is open to the public, since it takes a longer countryside road to get there.

In the meantime, small town of Paralia at the east coast is full of bustling crowd. People, music, beach equipment and discounted winter jackets – all of that gathered in the walking street that is bathing in the afternoon sunshine.  Two kilometers away, the popular Olympic Beach, is echoing the sound of badminton rackets and volleyball players` cheering. Small queue is made before the “foot shower” to wash off the sand before stepping on the smooth concrete promenade.

Music and swimming  during the day and cocktails on beach sofas at night, as the beat of modern music travels over the sand and further towards the horizon. High temperature until late afternoon leads to late dinner in one of so many local tavernas. Friendly laugh is hovering over plates with giros and pancakes, accompanied with beer, wine, ouzo or metaxa.

The road towards the hand-shaped Halkidiki penninsula goes through landscape, that changes from somewhat flat and dry coastline to green hills with fantastic view of the Aegean Sea. The hand`s first “finger” Kassandra, is popular with youth in quest of party vibes and best places to shoot summer “selfies”. Famous beach Kalithea is on the top of the list, which explains long queues of parked cars before even entering the beach area.

Sithonia, the second “finger”, on the other hand, is for nature-lovers and family members. Here wilderness rules, the deeper one wants to explore, and it is not rare to experience mountain goats stopping the whole traffic, as they take their time to savor that bush next to the road.

In the cosy and ancient town of Toroni on the western coast, fishermen boats are gently swaying as the afternoon is slowly passing  and sunrays are lightning the old fortress remains. This beautiful small town if full of colours, from paintings on the tree timbers to variations of the sea color, as it turns greener close to the coast and rocks.

The beach stretches as far as eye can see: from the fortress, via long lanes of hay parasols above the sunbeds, all the way to the restaurants corner a few kilometers further. Pedestrians over there often bump into waiters and waitresses, that are impatiently waiting to cross the street and serve hungry guests, since the kitchens are across the road of the serving tents. Nice smell of seafood, fish and grill is filling the night air. 

In the meantime, in Sarti on the opposite coast, warm colours of the town architecture invite for a cocktail at the beach or a cup of coffee at the rasta-style cafe. It is fun both to sit at the chairs in blue, red, yellow and see what it is like inside with all its exotic souvenirs from all over the world! And when the time for dinner arrives, it can be a little challenge to choose between different food style and many nice locations, since several restaurants have their dinner tables set up at the beach. Here, food queues can be seen both in the evenings (to get those sweet pancakes filled “with everything”) and at breakfast time, in front of the popular bakery.

The weather is generally perfect – sunny, stable and warm. If it happens to rain, it does not last long and even summer rain storms are simply a refreshment, a break, before taking a leap into another summer moment experience.

Orange Beach on the Sithonia`s eastern coast is really out of this place. Finding a parking place can be a challenge if not arriving early enough, but lucky are those with smaller cars that can be put in the shade of cypress tree. One of the coolest places to be at this amazing place, is the forest above the beach through which several paths cross on the way to the sand and water. Numerous man-made tents and huts offer a nice resting and refreshing stop or even lodging for those that wish to stay longer.

On Athos, the third finger, peace and tranquility govern. The part of Halkidiki only partly arccessible to female visitors, is different from Sithonia and so much different from Kassandra.  At the port of Ouranoupolis the big boat takes everyone onboard to a journey along the coast, where at 500 m distance, some of 20 orthodox monasteries can be seen. Above them all, rises its highness, “Holy Mountain”: Mount Athos. Back in the village, an evening walk up the local hill, passing vineyards and guarding dogs,  will end up on a high plateau with a beautiful sunset at the horizon and the big mountain confirming its awesomeness, sometimes with clouds surrounding its peak.

The monastery area is restricted to visitors unless having obtained special visiting or trading permit by the authorities. Some of the traders will export red wine, localy produced by the monks themselves. Perfect to be enjoyed at fresh night on a balkony in Ouranoupolis village, when people slowly stroll down the street, greeting neighbours and friends they meet, and cicada give their best performing one of them, summer night symphonies…

On the west coast,  stone walls in red, blue, yellow and pink, one above the other, conceal narrow passages and roads in the unique and cosy Parga. Spending 20 minutes in evening walk towards the dinner place is a routine that people get used to after being in Parga for only 24 hours. Thousands of feet have passed the cobblestone paths and bridges that connect the hills and extremely busy downtown. When the evening lights are on and the nights sky starts showing brightest stars, local ferryboat takes people over the water, shortening the trip to shops, booths, restaurants and bars in the center.

People of all ages remain awake and stroll at riviera until after midnight. Several restaurants door to door to each other play traditional Greek music and some of the owners raise their hands and demonstrate sirtaki dance to their guests. Further away, in the shopping area, extremely narrow, steep and winding stone paths lead the crowd up and down the busy alleys, full of clothes, jewellery, souvenirs, roasted corn and cotton candy. Parga is very much alive throughout the night and when the day breaks the peace will rule over the city.

Sometime before noon, most of people will step out on streets for late brunch and one of the great places is Fresh Juice Bar ! In the cosy little coartyard, open to public upwinding stone paths , little boy-the owner’s son- will serve food and coffee to the guests. A restaurant close by invites everyone to “stop and check what Parga`s fishermen have caught every day” as there is a fresh fish at the docks every morning.

Further out, Valtos Beach  and  the old Venetian Castle occupy the area very beloved by tourists. Clear sea water is full of small fish and floating fishermen boats can be seen from the castle walls, tucked in a green hug of the surrounding forest. Fresh juice and breakfast, early bath at the beach and a walk to the castle – what a nice way to start the day!

The day that maybe takes an adventurous spirit further south, to Peloponnese. The penninsula is connected to the mainland by a beautiful white Rio–Antirrio Bridge. Crossing it feels more like passing under a huge fish skeleton, and after ten minutes of drive on land, the harsh sea waves will show themselves, splashing at the stones of the Fortress of Rion, built at the very  end of 15th century. The waves rise high up, and anyone passing next to the fortress gate an actually get a nice splash in the face and their feet washed. That is the power of merciless and beautiful nature in its raw appearance!

The Fortress has been through a lot, and has served both Ottomans and Venetians, whose cultures have left their marks on the building structure. Some areas can be so exposed to wind, that the trees bend and remained of changed shape. The view from one of the wall holes, that used to be windows back then, is absolutely stunning: the blue and white colours at their finest and strongest create something that might be described as “painted reality”. Because, whatever it is in front of the spectator`s eyes, it is moving, it is living, yet its beauty can only be compared to the state of the art of painting masters` brushes.

And in the meantime, in the charming city of Patras not too far away, a wedding is getting prepared. In the Saint Andrew Church, there are chairs and candles put up, and people are rushing in and out of the door to make sure everything is ready before the happy couple arrives. Saint Andrew is the patron saint of the city and the church is one of the sites not to be missed.

Further walk, up and down the urban streets, leads to Georgiou I Square and a historical Apollon Theatre, said to resemble smaller version of the La Scala in Milan.

No wonder Patras attracts so many young people and students to come and enjoy its atmosphere: the city is a real cultural and historical center of the area, and when the night comes, there are “new kids” hanging by the Agiou Nikolaou Stairs, laughing and perhaps talking about all that bothers them and that they dream about. The place simply feels like it, when stepping down between all of them, babbling out through the night.

When leaving Patras before noon on a warm summer day, the highway gets hotter and hotter with each passing mile; soon a sign warning of “HIGH RISK OF FIRE” appears. Forest fire is a “common danger”, which the Greeks should be aware of during summer months.

When entering smaller land roads there are lines and lines of lime and lemon trees on both sides, and from time to time a small booth where farmers sell their honey, cheese and fruit. And in the distance – blue sea and huge grey mountain meeting each other, leaving an unforgettable image in the mind of the spectator.

Nafplio on the east coast has a beach full of people by early afternoon. It is so crowded that it is hard to find a really nice place for a beach towel. Yet, it is worth the effort; nature is lovely, from the stairs going through small pine tree park, where birds made their nests, and down towards the beach and water full of rich underwater life. And better be active in water, as small fish in Nafplio bite those legs that just stand or float in the water!!

Nafplio is considered to be one of the nicest Greek towns and was the first capital back in the 19th century. The narrow streets in old cobblestone city center might be heaven for walkers, but absolutely not for those behind the wheel; the process of finding a misteriously hidden parking place includes wrong turns in one-way streets and bus drivers helping confused drivers by hand gesticulations. Sometimes, again, one can get lucky and find a nice spot, just left by another car, in shade of the palms.

In the harbour, many domestic and foreign vessels are gently swaying and when the night falls, people are walking at the pier, taking photos of the poetic and romantic town and waiting for the boat show to start. Once the gondolas take tourists in and the red flames are shoot up from the boats, the a capella choir will let the echo of their beautiful voices fill up the air, flying over the water to the curious people crowd at the pier.

If it were not for way too hot mornings, climbing the 200 m hill to the  18th century Palamidi fortress would be pure enjoyment, crowned with spectatular view! Nevertheless, it still is for those who do not mind small sacrifices (heat, dehidration, sweat, fear of sunstroke?) – in the end, it often simply comes down to being fit to climb the hights in high temperatures.

The Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus can also be very hot area to visit during the summer sunny days, but it is absolutely worth the visit at any time of the year, or day for that matter! Standing un the middle of the spectacular amphitheatre, trying to visualize how it felt for the ancient Greek performers, and even shout out some passionate phrases, is a unique experience. Or taking a walk down the spectator`s stone seats and clapping the hands to get the echo back at you. The excellent acoustics tells a lot about the skills of the ancient architecture masters. How they did it and when they did it, it really does make it seem like something beyond this world.

The whole area used to be the sanctuary dedicated to Asclepius, Greek god of medicine. There are the remains of the Temple of Asclepius, with ancient ornamented columns, writings and prescriptions, as well as written stories about magical healing that supposedly happen over night in this area.

Not too far away from this ancient site, the highway leads lines of cars into the modern Greece`s capital. The modern streets in downtown Athens with fashionable stores and cafes is full of people, enjoying the city summer. While they are sitting in the shade during the hottest early afternoon hours, numerous street dogs are taking their nap until the pleasant coolness lands down on the city.

Athens, although fashionable and in constant change like many other European capitals, still keeps its treasures from the ancient times; goddess Athena probably still keeps its city the sanctuary of Acropolis and the Parthenon temple, that people dedicated to her in 5th century BC.

The hill is also rich with smaller sanctuaty sites in form of caves and monuments along the side slopes and not far away from it, small part left of Olympieion, columns dedicated to the god Zeus, remind of a huge site that used to be built here.

The Pnyx, meeting place of Athenian democrats and orators, Ancient Agora or cozy and vivid neibourhood Plaka have also a story to tell about Greece in the ancient time.

From one of the neighboring hills, people stand in line for hours to catch the best sunset moment with their cameras, and Athens is so huge and spread that each time one looks around, some new details might be discovered!  Lights around Acropolis in the evening, make it shine like some star castle on the hill, and all the monuments dedicated to gods, goddesses and philosophers quietly wait for the loud crowd that will visit them the next day. On the way downhill, the sound of piano is sent from an open window in one of those a bit hidden, but surely cozy apartments, from the second or third floor of an old city building; probably a private lesson held by a retired music professor…

In the morning local fish market gets quickly crowded, as fishermen and sellers elbow through the crowd searching for some delicacy for lunch or dinner.

Outside, close to the street, there is an excellent choice of  spices, vegetable and fruit.

New day can thus start with a nice walk and shopping of the fresh goods. And how it will continue…it is hard to say, as there are so many different ways to enjoy the summer in Athens. It might finish with a traditional folk dance, where both singers, players and of course dancers perform several styles of music and dance, from different part of this wonderful country. Yes, Greece, it is so easy to love you!

Besmrtnosti da mi je

Najbolja pesma koja je

od nastanka sveta stvorena

i koja ce ostati najbolja

do prestanka sveta



Besmrtnosti da mi je

sa zemlje

ne znam u prostore

dal` bih…..

Van zivljenja ima li smisla

drugi smisao traziti

Zamirisace zemlja

K`o svecica na nebu kad sine

izgubicu tren

nad zvezdama kad budem

uzalud cu traziti takvo mesto

kao sto je zemlja

kad zamirise biljem

na izmaku… (Tihomir M. Zivkovic)

Denmark is a beach!

A beach in sight. The splashing white foam of Danish sea waters slowly gives in. The neighbouring coast of the Zealand (Sjælland ) island of streches its long beach arms for the new guests. Far behind, the boat has left green pastures and fields of Swedish Halland, with its occassional strong wind blows that send the waves over the pier wall and give a salt face wash to those curious spectators of the beautiful and tough scenery.


The lighthouse at the Hornbæk`s outside pier gives green light – it is time to put down the sails before entering the harbour. Already there and then, friendly locals wave and send their greetings, that promise some good days ahead. The harbour master shares the same spirit; he proudly presents his Hornbæk and the busy pier where tasty and affordable sea food is served with chilled wine and beer.

Hornbæk`s beach is long and sandy. While the wave foam splashes over excited bathers and swimmers, the sun competes with the wind in reaching out to those other ones, lying on their beach towels, eager to get tanned.

After some bathing and drying on the beach in the morning, it is time for a long bike ride to the famous Rudolph Tegner museum. Located in the countryside, this precious institution houses numerous sculptures of the renowned Danish artist. Both inside and outside of the building, figures in stone tell stories inspired by everyday life and old myths.  And inside,  in one of those rooms in the back of the museum, numerous Tegner`s paintings decorate the walls; paintings of different courners of the planet that the artist visited during his lifetime…

Rudolph Tegner museum

All that he experienced plays it self out in different forms in front of spectators’ eyes: from the cult Parisian Seine and the bridges over it, via Spanish landscapes and portraits to Moroccan green market. It feels like it would be a time travel experience if only one stayed some minutes longer. Very inspiring paintings, both for painters and world travellers. After the museum visit,  a smiling and friendly cafe host in the museum`s backyard serves a good cup of coffee.  Sitting there on a bench and being surrounded by idyllic countryside – an old water well, garden full of greens, cafe`s pet dog resting in the shade under the table and fresh flowers in a vase next to the coffee cup – gives tons of necessary energy for the cycling back.

The neigbouring harbour of Gilleleje, some sailing hours to the west, still keeps memory of the time when this used to be a small fishing village. Now restaurants and kiosks  serving local delicacies have their outside tables full of hungry visitors. No wonder; good smell spreads throughout the whole area! Fishermen and sailors gather together on board one of the boats to have a skål with nubben glasses in bohemian spirit. Their laughter makes harbour more lively and more cosy, as the evening slowly approaches.

A walk in the town. Thatched roofs on old houses keep the spirit of old Gilleleje. House yards full of flowers, summer greens and working tools, with a bit of mess here and there, reveal similarities with southern European backyards. This could be a reminder that Denmark might be a mix of Scandinavia and the rest of Europe.  Gilleleje is also called “the town on the hill” and the reason for it reveals itself during the search for the old lighthouse .

Nakkehoved lighthouse

The path passes Gilleleje`s church and cemetery  and gradually climbs up the hill, where people have build beautiful homes with even more beautiful view. Sitting on a wooden bench, set up just there at the top of the hill, and enjoying the view of the sea blue with white triangular sails on the horizon or even a boat regatta near the neighboring rock, who wouldn`t get a feeling of being a witness to somehing out of this world or at least something confirming that this world can be and is an awesome place (at least from time to time)?

On the way back forest path leads eventually to steps, that end up on the pebble stone beach and it is exiting to jump the many stones on the way to the harbour.
“It is almost necessary to have a dog to come to this place”, says and smiles one of the crew members of the boat that just arrived to Hundested, harbour at the corner of Danish Halsnæs peninsula. Two dogs on board, of course. They are waving their tails, trying to find their way to the land, while the owners are still fixing the ropes to make sure the boat is tied well.  The comment refers to the name of the place: “hund” meaning “dog” and “sted” – “place”. However, “hund” here apparently means “seal”. Tough to imagine two of those on board.

Hundested is not big place, but could be called a center for artist shops and galleries, where visitors can enjoy or buy various artifacts, from postcards to furniture. Public messages of wisdom such as “Order removes imagination” and “Only the stupid cleans up, the genius masters chaos” that are posted on an artist workshop is a creative way of explaining (and justifying) the state of its interior. Speaking of notes,   “Closed today,  due to the rain” is a common one on rainy days as the wooden art, which dominates the square, does not tolerate water.

It would rather wait dry and sunny weather, when a huge sand castle in the heart of Hundested welcomes thousands of visitors, that probably try to make their own at the beach later.

Yet, there is always something to do, even in the wet weather. As one of the brochures says, you can never get bored in this part of Denmark. Or, at least, they claim so. One can, for example, try out rope tying skills. Both rope and instructions how to make knots hang on the wall of one of the gallery houses.  Or simply get into rainy boots and jump and splash with all power the water from small street ponds. Meant for children from 2 to 92. 🙂

Ice cream lovers do not get discouraged by the rain and head for the local supermarket, but those with kids made all the popcycles disappear from the freezer. Only family packages left. Big supermarket. Not a single ice cream. Ok, big packages are still untouched. But still. Unreal.

It will be smooth sailing out of Hundested, think those on board with a touch of poetic innocence!. But NO! The area out of the harbour is called Terskelen (“The Threshold”) – it is a tough battle with waves and air when going against the wind.

But eventually the boat crosses the water and arrives to Grenå on the Jutland (Jylland) peninsula. Here is the place to enjoy a good bicycle ride on the way to bakery in the morning, for instance. When the wheels cross the dock and pass that narrow space next to the ramp, and then over the wooden bridge, the road eventually gets flatter and longer and it feels good to work out before famous Danish sweet tasty breakfast…calories.

Grenå is also a nice destination when searching some town fun, Western-style wooden bars, bowling or simply – hanging out with sharks! Yes, Grenå has also Kattegatcentret, aquarium full of sharks and all other beautiful sea creatures. One of the highlights is feeding of sharks and seaIs, conducted by very experienced staff and trainers.

In the meantime, in the harbour, boats seem to constantly come and go. And it is fun to look at them. For example, those three older sailors à la Popeye over there, on board the boat called “Oh dear”. Hope “Oh dear” finds a good place before the night falls.

The next day, as the sailing trip proceeds north towards the island Læsø between Denmark and Sweden, the wind stops. Or it blows maximum 2 m/s, sometimes 3. A German boat seems to be standing completely still and land is currently  nowhere in sight. He greets the boat passing by and shrugs his shoulders: “Kein Wind”. Sympathy goes both ways. It will be better soon.

In Læsø`s Vesterø harbour people are gathering just before the sunset to “syng solen ned”, sing as the sun goes down. Some are singing and some are grilling and the summer evening simply feels perfect after a long sailing during the day.

After the sun sets down, there is a phenomenon in the sky; not a rainbow, but rainbow colors in clouds. And down on Earth, two teenagers are building sand towers, while listening to hip hop music from their mobile speakers. When meeting people on the beach, they stop the music and get shy. They continue digging. After a while, music sound can be heard from the beach again.

Læsø people are proud of the island`s salt. It is everywhere; bakers use it when making bread, local spa center uses it in treatments and lots of it can be found under the boats` sprayhoods!

Not far from Vesterø, there is a long beach. Long and shallow path in the water, with sand islands popping up on the way, when people least expect them. On Læsø people seem like to be walking on the water.

Læsø Beaches

Meanwhile, an extremely friendly and talkative bus-driver takes us all to the Østerby harbour, harbour that belongs to fishermen and their industry. Although it also has apart with sailing and pleasure boats as well as a long sandy beach, it is fishing boats with all their characteristics (nets, fishing equipment, look like they should get cleaned) that rule the place.

One boat gets a visitor. Seagull not only got on board, it is actually checking all the rooms inside of it! Nothing beats this hungry birds. Specially not a small dead fish, left in the net on land. A bit of patience and the bird got its snack.

It is hard to leave Læsø and set the course north. Sweden is waiting, with its really nice islands and nature…but if only we could take some sand (and a small beach) with us. Tip / note for later: plan the trip to Danish islands so that you have enough days to enjoy this beach of a country!

Romania: Hidden Treasure

A small lively figure alongside the highway in the middle of whoknowshere. It gets bigger and bigger and the front lights put that stray dog in the limelight. Another pleasant summer evening in Romania gives in to the night and dinner is yet to be found. Maybe at the drive in over there, where the restaurant lights shine until early morning hours? Maybe that is where our four-legged friend will make a new friend, and these kinds of friendships are the best- made over a good bite!

The countryside around is serene, quiet and here dusk really does feel like “a breach between two worlds” (dialogue between Carlos Castaneda and Don Juan). It is a good time to breathe out the stress accumulated during the day and breathe in the warm summer night. Life feels somehow lighter, at least until tomorrow starts to push one around again. The sound of cicadas is more pleasant than the potential mosquito bites, so it is smart to turn off the lights and get a good rest because tomorrow…

The smooth and young road stretches from village to village full of warm colors: colorful houses, decorated horse carriages, smiling and hard-working farmers hitchhiking (!) to the next village, good and neat hay poles and green pastures and mountains.

The sun heats up the front of the car and it is soon time to turn left and make a break. And there, in the sunny Curtea de Arges, a stone arch reveals a magnificent view: there, next to one more neat hay pole, a beautiful St. Nicolas church proudly rises its tower ornamented with taste: stone jewelry and bright colors pattern cover the outside wall and inside…a good, peaceful moment can be wisely spent and eyes fed with painted fresco’s of the devoted saints.
As the neck streches back, one’s face can meet painted face of God’s son and right at that moment, a ray of sun will make a diagonal, from the right top corner of the dome to the visitor’s foot, arm or maybe heart down below. Artists from Rome came here long time ago and painted the frescos in this amazing place..

Curtea de Arges

Blessed and refreshed, the journey moves on towards the lower Carpathian Mountains, because this car simply must experience the famous and thrilling Transfăgărășan mountain road.


Transfăgărășan. Yes, this is the reason why the «Tope Gear» guys would love to stay in Romania forever. The road starts «innocently» in the lower Carphatians, but soon the car speed finds itself shifting from 90 to 30 km/hour and vice versa and the GPS shows another and another curve around the corner. Try to film it and your camera will spin around, so hold on to it and enjoy the crazy ride. In the unlike moments of stress, just turn to the window (in case you are not the driver!) and enjoy the Fagarasan green beauty, mountain rivers and high stone walls! The temperature of around 30 degrees keeps its constant «Highness», but someting will happen in the tunnel that leads to the Bâlea Lake (Bâlea Lac). The hot Balkans is left behind, that is what people feel when fresh Nordic-like 5 summer degrees welcome them at the entrance of a beautiful glacier lake scenery.

Bâlea Lake (Bâlea Lac)

A glacier landscape implies snow in the mountains in the middle of summer and healthy fresh atmosphere. Real enthusiasts climb the peaks surrounding the lake and spend the night outside in their tents. Most of other visitors are happy to climb the hill that gives a dizzy and unforgetable view of the Transfăgărășan curvy road below . The hungry ones head for the booths selling dry meat and sausages, home-made bread rings and nougats with nuts or raisins.

Sibiu, the first city stop after a few days in the countryside. Noon heat is hard to bear and it is useful to know the precious word in a Romanian shop: “apă” («water»). With a H2O bottle or two in hands, the brain is refreshed and can focus on the new and exciting surroundings. People fill the streets and the pedestrian zone, full of shops, cafes and restaurants, is hard to avoid when searching for food. Soon plates full of traditional grilled meat and other dishes occupy the tables and good local beer and wine make people forget about the heat..As the evening with its coolness fills the air, the stream of people walking gets richer and suddenly some drum beats start echoing from the distance. What might that be? The only way to find out is to follow the sound.


A stage in the middle of the square and dancers on it. Their graceful movements tell the story about the genesis of human race and about human genius and his creation. A lazy day is stamped by the dusk full of philosophical questions about the good and the evil we people do when using the assets a genius created. And finally the genius’ thrill and despair when he sees what it all comes to…the topic is heavy, but also entertaining. The scene is, like so many times before, simply a mirror for the audience, those that will hopefully learn a lot tonight.

The next day sunny morning starts with eggs for breakfast and good strong coffee for the road-road to Biertan. A little cozy village in medieval style, designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, with small barking dogs greeting the people from windows or the big ones suddenly jumping out from the dark corners of the backyards:). The local inn hosts its regular guests, but also some “scarry” tourists that do not speak the language – under the condition that they point that beer with finger and kindly pay the waitress. Soon, however, as the drink kills the thirst and cools off the nervous minds, a word of this or that language will be said, smiles and handshakes take place and next time this stranger will be a regular guest! Across the street, local vendors sell honey, hand-made wooden souvenirs and traditional clothes in front of the most famous point in this historical place: a fortified church that is reached by climbing the old staircase in a wooden tunnel.


When the kind host opens the heavy door with a huge old key, the quietness of  this gothic sacred fortress takes visitors a few hundreds of years back in time.. Wooden benches, furniture and sculptures with a nave ceiling above have many stories to tell if one has ears ready for them. Outside, the view from the wall surrounding the fortress is really like painted on canvas: peaceful village in the medow, surrounded by the green hills, with hay piles and tractors witnessing the season work progress…if climbing on the hill nearby early in the morning, when the morning mist still hesitates to give in and let the sun rule the day, the fortified church in the distance stands there like a castle from a fairytale and keeps the village safe. The grass is tall on the hill, and legs might be cut by it here and there, but the eyes will be happy for experiencing this unforgettable view, an early morning reward. The days are long and when the evening comes and organism craves for food, the local restaurant just next to the church will serve good traditional dishes in a huge medieval hall (knight armor, axes and shields on the wall, long tables and tall chairs included).


To experience more from the historic Transylvania, many head for Sighișoara, the birth place of Vlad III the Impaler (aka Vlad Țepeș or Vlad Dracula). The central core of this town is a citadel established in 12th century and is famous for its annual medieval festival. The Church on the Hill (Biserica din Deal) dominates the place located on the 429m hilltop and is surrounded by a few-level cemetery which is quite pleasant to visit. Down below, in one of the citadel`s cobblestone streets, in a yellow house…on the second floor…there is a room in red, specially prepared for the tourists. ..A story unfolds among the curtains that easily can turn into cobweb if visitors use their imagination. So here it all started for him, the famous Draculaaa. The old furniture and red light are in strong contrast,  just like this room is with the sun and life on the cobblestones outside.


So we can say that the “Dracula tour” starts here. Next stop, place where he spent imprisoned just a short period in later years: the Corvin castle (Castelul Corvinilor) in Hunedoara, a city called by the famous Hungarian Hunyadi family that ruled here in the past .

Corvin castle (Castelul Corvinilor) in Hunedoara

The castle is closed in the evenings but, as locals like to say, there is always some reason to celebrate in the city center in summer evenings. Tonight, the street is full of vendor booths selling food, drinks and delicacies, one of the very popular ones being Hungarian spit cake kürtőskalács, crispy sweet bread topped with powder walnuts or cinnamon… Further down the road a real “dinner square” unfolds where people mass sits at the wooden tables under the tents à la Oktoberfest and eats meat, goulash, soups, grill and drinks local beer,  using up all the napkins, because it is all so hot (or at least piquant) -and extremely delicious! Afterwards it is time to stand in line for the soft ice-cream and the brave ones will risk with their full stomachs and take a ride on a roller coaster in the amusement park. What a nice and surprising evening for someone who gets disappointed because the castle cannot be visited until tomorrow!

Corvin Castle
Corvin castle (Castelul Corvinilor) in Hunedoara

And like all the things on this trip – it is worth waiting. Upon arrival, there are many that firstly take a photo of the grey castle fortress with orange roof from the distance, blown away by its beauty and magnificence. It looks almost unreal, just like in hero and princess tales: a wooden bridge goes over a surrounding deep moat. There is also a little stream that flows between the green fields and around the castle, until the water summons and turns in a little waterfall just under the bridge. The visitors walk over it in order to enter this historic site, after waiting patiently in the queue. Soon the fortress walls take the guests long into the past, as they roam from room to room and explore their treasures.

The good part of being on this trip is the drive distances between the places. As the thoughts digest all the impressions from Hunedoara, the eyes are fed with more of the calm countryside scenes left and right of the car windows…

The next stop is the corn field and parking lot next to it. Further in the distance a super-modern museum building just stands there, like a vehicle from a “Star Wars” movie that lost its way in the Middle Ages. Welcome to Salina Turda, the Salt Chamber House or simply – salt mine.

Salina Turda

Those who step in this house learn that the word for salary comes from “sum of money for buying salt” and is reminded of the importance of this natural resource. The place commemorates the hard-working hands of the salt cutters back in the 18th century and as one descends level after level deep underground, the Celsius degrees become fewer and fewer until everybody miss that “terrible heat outside”.

Then again, it is completely unique to walk town the tunnel corridor with – salty walls. Don`t believe it – lick it!

Salina Turda

The fun only gets bigger, while checking different salt rooms, taking a boat ride on the cave lake, going up and down all those stairs or taking all those elevators and admiring absolutely incredible nature-made patterns on those salty walls and stalactites…As that was not enough, it is also possible to check own singing abilities while your voice echoes back in the special “echo cave room”.

Salina Turda

Cluj-Napoca or simply Cluj where one arrives afterwards to have some food and rest for the night, is a surprise if a visitor does not expect too much from it. Lively bars and cafes that work until late at night are already full of both tourists and locals, but first of all students, because this is where they govern. It might be even challenging to get something to eat after 9 pm, since most of the serving places have their hands full of beer, wine, spirit, juices, water, cocktails getting ready for their jolly guests.


Bună dimineaţa!, a fountain with monument in front of the Metropolitan Cathedral seem to greet everyone the next morning, as the sun shines in its full power, promising another beautiful day. The day perfect for the distant trip to the northern Maramureș area; another adventure while driving through villages and towns as corn fields and houses in all possible colors pass by the car window.


At the very entry of this region, the tallest wooden church in the world, the Greek-Catholic Church of the Holy Archangels in Șurdești village almost touches the sky with its 54 meter long tower! This building from 18th century is clothed in dark wood and its interior tells many Christian stories from the past,  painted on the old wood in different colors by acknowledged art masters.


The Carpathian mountains as a big and long green wall run along the motorway and from time to time make the radio signal somewhat..choppy… and in case of one of those sudden and merciless rain storms, they can feel threatening; at least until travelers do not find shelter in a nice road restaurant, with carved wooden tables and chairs. The chilly mountain air always increases appetite and even the storm can be enjoyed after some traditional food treat.

On the road again- or better said -on the rain river, the car turns into a boat, the driver into a captain and it is pouring stronger and stronger…the grass fields’ color seems now extra green and the whole surrounding extra clean. It is good with an occasional good summer rain.

Carpatia summer rain
Carpatia summer rain

As the sky feelings eventually calm down and the evening approaches, a plan is made over -what else?- a good traditional meal.

Merry Cemetery (Cimitirul Vesel), a paradoxical name describing a place just as full of contrast: resting place in the village of Săpânța where life and death, sorrow and life enjoyment go hand in hand. This place is painted in blue (color of sadness?) and it is the most popular graveyard in this area, if not in the whole world…Wait. “Most popular”? “Graveyard”?? What does that even mean?

Most of the blue stone monuments are ornamented with pictures, not only of faces of the buried person, but also of some special episode from his or her life. All of this is decorated with colorful stars hearts and other details, a poem here, a message there and everything does feel somehow – merry. They say it helps for the families to deal with the grief and the loss of the dear person and death here is represented simply as a part of life. There is a queue of those who are to be buried here and behind the cemetery some freshly dug graves are waiting for their blue stone that will tell their story.

Merry Cemetery
Merry Cemetery

Maramureș is said to be a special and cosy corner of Romania, one of those places we search when in need to experience a genuine, traditional way of life of a new country, that feeling which is missing in bigger cities and man-changed rural areas. It is therefore not surprising when the locals call it “another world”, the world which keeps traditional values alive and people are in deep contact with nature. In Sighetu Marmației everyone can make a step in the past by entering the gates of the outdoor Sighet Village Museum and get into the old style village houses that keep the spirit a few centuries old. Those more interested in the recent society history can visit Sighet Memorial Museum . In addition, tranquil monastery yards bathed in summer sunshine, welcome everyone who wishes to rest eyes on the simple beauty of nature, whether it be green fields, flowers, hills or religious architecture.

Sighet Village Museum
Sighet Village Museum

When naming Maramureș`s village-pearls, Ieud should not be forgotten. It is said that the name Ieud was first mentioned in the 14th century in one of the oldest Romanian books “Codicele de la Ieud”.  The manuscript was found in the local wooden church, the oldest one among the famous eight wooden churches of Maramureș. In early morning hours, a good wooden bench is waiting for someone to come and admire out-of-the-world peace and beauty, while the only sound comes from the hard-working woodpecker on the tree nearby. Casa traditiilor is one of the absolutely fantastic guest houses that will feed and tuck in a tired guest and even do his laundry that piled up during a long trip. This place is run by people that cherish Romanian tradition and as they say, “are friendly, hospitable and with the fear of God”. Good thing to note down is that the red liquid on all the dinner tables is not wine: so use smaller spirit glasses for this strong and tasty pálinka!

Casa traditiilor
Casa traditiilor

After a typical Balkan breakfast, consisting of five different egg dishes, five types of bread, five types of home-made jam, meat cheese, warm and cold milk and coffee,  the mountain road further to the famous painted monasteries of Bucovina is waiting to be discovered and experienced. There are some parts during this trip that will be challenging, due to the old mountain road; isolated area and challenging climate conditions might have made it a non-priority for the Romanian road authorities. The nature, however, rough but beautiful as always, makes up for the discomfort. It is absolutely worth it. Numerous castle-like white churches with their gray towers and fresco’s on the outside walls, stand proudly on the side of the road, as the car takes the passenger further. Wood industry seems to be very popular in these areas, as a sort of working camp with whole families around can be seen in some of the villages. Lots of the action can be daily experienced on the road, like when cars have to wait for the workers to properly collect and pack the hay onto the tractor standing right in front of them. The next challenge is a wagon in summer-mode speed, pulled by horses ornamened with red ribbons – there it is, you can see it through the windshield and yes, better speed down to 10 km/h. It is summer, after all. No rush.


Several buses take the swings one after another on their pilgrimage to the painted monasteries. The painted frescoes on the outside walls have been visually teaching the people from the surrounding villages about stories from the Bible and Christian faith for a couple of centuries. All the lady visitors in short summer clothes will get a cloth to wrap around their waists and make a long skirt before they enter the serene courtyards of these UNESCO protected heritages. There are eight monasteries belonging to this sacred group of Romanian heritage and almost a whole day can be spent in only three of them: Moldovițawith its nice paths and flower garden, Sucevița with a good museum and Voroneț monastery, “the Sistine Chapel of the East”, that is reached by driving up the hill and down the alley in a sunny landscape.  After spending the day in these sacred places and their surroundings, a good mountain rest is ensured in one of the local guest-houses and hotels (best to book in time!) in Suceava.



Voroneț monastery

Next stop – Brașov , 7th biggest city of this interesting country! It is located in the very center of Romania and it is said at the similar distance to both painted monasteries in Bucovina, wooden churches in Maramureș and the Black Sea. A good historic guide will open the door of the First Romanian School, lead through its museum, old classrooms with benches and blackboard and show the visitors some of the oldest Romanian books and the first printing press.


And when the clock strikes ten, the city`s symbol Biserica Neagră  (Black Church) welcomes the stream of visitors speaking different world languages and belonging to different world religions…People are many but peacefulness is mostly respected inside as the churches cultural and religious treasures are discovered by many new pairs of eyes.

Brașov might seem desolated in some areas; is the summer heat this afternoon really that challenging, that most of the citizens hide indoors? The answer is soon to be found in the city center and its promenade, where everyone seems to run to, having a walk, eating delicious ice-creams or simply enjoying in one of the many café gardens. Nearby there is a narrowest street ever, so called The Rope Street (Strada Sforii) with the walls almost touching each other and keeping the foot traces of so many that love to “hang” between the walls for the sake of a good photo memory. After a visit to historical monuments The Black and The White Tower, it is soon time for dinner and, since the evening is so pleasant that it is a pity to sit inside, plates full of various grill meat and local beer at the table outside will be an excellent fit.

The next day suitcases are packed in the morning and the car is on the road again, heading south to the famous Romanian castles: Bran and Peleș .

The whole trip might have started long time ago, as an idea to visit the mysterious Transylvania and “the Dracula`s castle” one day, “when we grow up”. But then again, it is really hard to get a clear idea of what to expect upon arrival to the castle in Bran, except souvenirs in all possible forms and shapes with a must-have: picture of Vlad the Impaler, blood and fangs. And queues, long queues in both time and space, and the question arises whether it is worth it to wait so long and maybe enter some 15 minutes before closure and miss the opportunity to see the Peleș castle and end up stuck in traffic with all these worldwide masses and their rental cars and…”but me wait”, as the hit goes.

And slowly the people stream flows towards the gate and as one enters in the yard, a good-looking old castle poses for the photo shooting. By now visitors interested in the history have probably heard that this is not “the real Dracula`s castle”, “he spent three days of his life here” and so on; however, entering the halls and rooms everyone can enjoy the exhibition of old style furniture, read stories from the history on the walls, find hidden passages and of course, marvel the fantastic view from the top floor. The inner courtyard hides a water well, which could provoke some thoughts in the mind of a visitor just having read about vampires and super natural beings in different countries in one of the castle rooms.

Bran Castle
Bran Castle

All in all, it was definitely worth waiting; the castle looks very nice with its dirty white walls and orange towers, built like a fortress on the hill of stones way back in the 14th century. The Bran Castle could be something different than expected, but probably much better than expected as well.

Bran Castle

In the neighboring Sinaia, many people come to seek for skiing, mountaineering adventures, fresh air and spa treatment, but also to a stay overnight after or before visiting the magnificent Peleș Castle nearby.

The 19 century beautiful giant in its gold-plated walls and many tower peaks is surrounded with a big garden, so a visitor can probably spend even two days to enjoy both the interior and exterior.


One of the first things that the guide says, standing on the top of the royal steps, is that the only thing missing in the castle is an internet modem; this is allusion to the fact that Peleș was the first castle in the whole world fully powered by electricity!

Peleș Castle

And not only that! Besides various rooms that the royal family used for living, resting, painting, knitting, the castle also has a – home cinema! The tour goes from room to room, down the long fairy-tallish corridors. Many stories are told, like that one about people from all over the world coming to build the castle or the one about thousands of weapons from different countries ending up in one of the rooms…Or the one about the secret passage behind the movable book shelf/door. Those things are real.

Peleș Castle
Peleș Castle

Through richly ornamented windows one can vaguely spot the garden`s green color and it is not so difficult to picture the queen sitting and playing the harp or the king writing a letter at the desk, resting his eyes from time to time on the fantastic surroundings through the open window.

It feels like a time-travel experience, moving from 19th century Peleș to 21st century Bucharest…When the car finally finds its parking destination after the incredible cross-country journey and the summer city heat replaces cool Carpathian countryside, it is best to wait for evening hours to take the best out of several days in the Romania`s capital.


Almost 2 million people live and work in this developing city, that reminds of many East European capitals. Similar looks, similar recent history and society changes, similar scorching heat during long summer days. And yet again similar city buzz, people defying the heat with attractive short clothes, looks and youth and unbeatable night life! Because when the evening coolness rules, all that is a burden in life can wait until 10.00 AM the next day. Life is only one, after all.

Curious first-time visitors will have to be brave and grab that huge water bottle, because rows will be long and patience necessary during opening hours of all the city famous buildings and museums. It is possible to end up marveling at something that will turn out to be a part of controversial history, but that is how the world is today.

Antheneul Roman, Concert Hall, Bucharest

Visiting Romania turns out to be a very enriching lecture: the struggle East Europeans have experienced during the constant development has shaped the dualism of the peoples` mentality. They might be distrustful in the beginning, but it only takes some time until their warm heart and kindness embraces you and they show the best of their culture! It sometimes does takes patience thou, but that is a good exercise for all the people in the world. It is a part of the constant human development on the way to maturity, when prejudices and conflicts give way to something that is actually worth living for.

Text by Dragana Paulsen

Photos by Kjartan Ivar Paulsen








初级“På vei”/ “Ny i Norge”

中级“Stein på stein”

高级“Her på berget”


每人价格 人组 六人组
60分钟节课 200挪威克朗 100挪威克朗
12节课学期* 2000挪威克朗 1000挪威克朗

*每节课90分钟, 一个星期两次

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Cadence Community Spotlight: Dragana – Interview

Original Source:

Cadence Community Spotlight: Dragana

“Dragon” + “ana”, ya. The person is even cooler than the name, and this interpreter speaks Serbian, Chinese, English, Norwegian and Dutch

One of Cadence’s interpreters Dragana joins me for a fireside chat. We discuss normal things: everyday life, Ernest Hemingway, Salmon and Desert Island.

Dragana, let me first point out that Dragana is a ridiculously awesome name.

Thank you. Working in the professional world I often go by Lana, an international nickname that’s a bit easier to pronounce. Dragana is pronounced something like “Dragon + na” with a slight furling of the tongue on the Dr part.

Who is Dr(tongue furl)agana? Where are you from, how was your childhood, what are your interests?

I was born in Bosnia and grew up in Croatia and Serbia where I studied Chinese from 2000 to 2004. I have always been fascinated with languages, communicating is something I do well and I think I do it better than other things. As an interpreter you work with people, which is very enriching and also a good way to make a living. I see it as win-win on many levels. 😊

Why Chinese?

I was always interested in their exotic characters and Chinese philosophy. It was compulsory for students at my university to take two languages, I chose Chinese as my main area of focus and Dutch as a side project. So it would always be Chinese lectures in the morning and Dutch lectures in the afternoon and evening. I was even lucky enough to study in Belgium on scholarship for a bit. That being said the University of Belgrade was where I studied Chinese language and literature. At the same time I also became very passionate about journalism. I wrote for a local paper in Serbia while studying in 2002 and now I work as a freelance journalist for Chinese media in Norway. I was lucky enough that my Chinese teachers at Belgrade were very passionate about teaching and introducing Chinese culture to Serbian students. We did tai chi together in our spare time with our Chinese professors and made dumplings for Chinese New Year. After graduation I got a job offer to work as an English teacher in Fujian province so I moved to China in September 2005 and stayed there for a year until September 2006.


I ended up taking the HSK three times, two of the three times while studying at Belgrade and the last time in China. After my time in China I returned to Belgrade where I worked for a few Chinese companies across various industries like telecom, building and trading.

You’re like a Serbian Swiss Army knife.

Yes…In 2009 I moved to Oslo. It’s actually interesting to note Norway and Serbia have a very good relationship dating back to WW II, Norwegian food is quite similar to food in the Balkans, especially the mountain areas in Croatia where I grew up. You know Eastern Europe is famous for meat and potatoes but Norwegian food is just as delicious!

I have had Norwegian food once before and all I remember is that it was incredibly sweet.

Not sure but that might have been the tyttebær sauce (English: Cowberry, Red Whortleberry, Lingonberry, Lowbush Cranberry, Mountaain Cranberry, Partridgeberry, Red Billberry, Rock Cranberry) with mashed rutabaga: its a traditional Norwegian Christmas dish usually served with lamb meat, sausages.

How was the switch from Serbia to China to Serbia to Oslo?

People here are so friendly and have a different way of thinking. Culture shock is quite normal when moving to a place you’ve never been before. It is most times unavoidable to experience culture shock and it is interesting to note that people moving to a new place often experience the same kind of psychological states known as psycho-stages: enjoying the exotic, glorifying the homeland and full integration.

It goes a little something like this: 1st year is falling in love with the exotic culture, 2nd year is glorifying your own country and comparing it to everything that you see around you and 3rd is full integration.

{Gurgle}. I have lived in Beijing now for 10 months so in two months I should technically be moving into the second phase of integration?

Well, you might feel culture shock here and there, that is natural. But you are from America, right? I believe you will not have a difficult task in finding something to glorify your country for, considering its natural diversity.

What types of journalism do you like to cover?

Culture, health, education and social everyday life because I think these are the most important. I have a lot of freedom and feedback for covering things I want to cover, I have only been here for 3 months and there is a lot of communication between me and the news agency. My colleagues and I often communicate in Chinese when preparing the articles but I write in English for Xinhua. That being said, Norway doesn’t have any toupee-turning stories, it isvery stable. There are no big breaking news stories. theres 10 political parties but it is nearly impossible to decipher the differences. In spite of the recent oil crisis as you know, the economy is good compared to the rest of the world and salmon prices seem to be eternally going up up up.

Any good Chinese food in Olso {gurgle gurgle} ?

YES! There is a place called Dinner which is the most famous Chinese restaurant, I believe! Chinese friends that live in Norway probably have other good suggestions about where to go to eat good Chinese food the first people that migrated from China to Norway, had to cater the cooking to the local palate. Actually the first migrants from China mostly started their own restaurants, and a lot of them are still around so you know it’s good.

I have been subconsciously steering the conversation back to food this whole time. I will try to get back on track but if I mention food one more time please tell me to shut up. Ok. What is it like working for Xinhua?

Its actually different than my prior journalistic experiences. Back when I worked in Belgrade as a journalist, I was a local there and worked full time. Now I work for a international agency in a foreign country, it is quite special. As for my side-hustle, I work as a part-time freelancer and we cover happenings that are of interest for foreign communities; for example there is an annual culture festival here in Oslo during August called ERAS where people from all over the world gather in the city center and show their traditional costumes and food from their home country.

Desert island: you can bring three books with you on a desert island and those will be the books you will read for the rest of your life, what are they and why?

OOo, tough question as I am constantly reading. 1. Ernest Hemingway (for his short stories and even shorter sentences), 2. something psychology (not the self help kind, something more professional, maybe how the human psyche works), 3. third book could be something of a female author I really like, her name is Marija Jovanovic, she studied psychology as well and has a beautiful writing style. She knows how to express her self through only a word of two, something like Hemingway, but also uses long sentences. I could say that I like to read Hemingway because of his journalistic background and Jovanovic because of her psychology background — might be that is what makes me so connected to them when I read their work.


Talk business, anywhere

When you are doing business in China, why not hire the best China interpreter in your city? With Cadence, Chinese translation services and Chinese interpretation services is as simple as a click. Get automatically matched with the best interpreters and translators in the world, like Dragana ☝️.

Wooden Boats in Skärhamn and Hälleviksstrand

On a windy evening a man is trying to fasten the ropes of newly built tents in Skärhamn. It is expected that the strong wind kuling will visit the harbour the night before the Wooden Boat Festival officially starts the next day. One of the tents survives the night and a rowing boat, built by the building masters who create miracules despite their weakened eyesight, is shown to the morning crowd.            KIP_2195_resized1600x

In front of the tent an improvized pool is soon covered by little wooden boat toys with paper sails with children names on it. Little future sailors and boat lovers are on their feet from an early morning and many of them are standing impatiently in the line in front of the Aquarell museum. The Disney exhibition starts its global tour exactly in Skärhamn! The mastership of animation world is presented on the whole first floor of the museum and takes people far, far away to the adventure land!


The heart of the harbour is all made of wood on this day; wooden boats of different types and sizes are proudly put up and the owners tell the story of their vessels on board. Along the path surrounding the harbour sentre, many other tents are full of people as all kind of sellers are offering their goods: maritime equipment, boat decoration, jewelry, food and clothes are spread in all possible colours and it is a joy just to go through all of them and collect the smells and impressions. The famous Skärhamn`s ”smiling church” is rising above the other side of the harbour where the ållsang (”eveyone sings”) concert provides entertainment to music and icecream lovers.


The festival goes on and soon it is time to check weather prognosis and see what kind of wind will arrive this evening. Many decide to stay in the harbour and enjoy the second day of the festival as well. The only better thing than a good festival party is its re-broadcast!

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A bit more north, some of the wooden boats also end up in the harbour of Hälleviksstrand. No festival here, but a small lively place centre has its own charm. The icecream kiosk is well used to rows in front of it, as good traditional vanilla is served in waffles and cups.

WP_20160717_14_14_25_Pro_resized1600xThere are a few smaller roads heading from the harbour towards different parts of the island. One of them goes along a beautiful green island countryside and ends up in front of the famous red church that further in the distance creates a fairytale scene. Built in gothic style and in the length shape of the Greek cross, it welcomes visitors every working day.


The road continues further around, until it reaches harbour again with a small bridge to cross a pond. On the other side many people gather around and in the famous lunch restaurant, ”Mia`s sjöbod”, which not only provides excellent meals and deserts, but also a unique interiour, which makes people mix it up with a small museum. That is why there is a note above the entrance door reminding visitors that it is a restaurant and not a museum inside. Surrounding small yard is also beautifully ornamented and one simply must have a recognizable pink little bag in his hand as he leaves the place with a jar of a home-made jam or a sweet by the name ”To die for”.

Text by Dragana Paulsen

Photos by Kjartan Ivar Paulsen

Summer Fun in Stenungsund

Bicycle rides on their own paradise tracks, friends gathered at a sundy beach, new Tarzan 3D movie in the local cinema, bar quizes (also on Thursday evenings!) and all of this in one place – it can only be Stenungsund. The harbour, althouh big, can be quite full in July. Most of the boats tied to the docks by the thick ropes seems to be here all year round; guests have to fight for their place.


Once they have it, however, lots of fun is guaranteed. A day full of summer activities can begin. Local turist office rents bicycles and, as long as the riders reach it back by 6 pm, those wheels can go wherever; over the bridge to the Stenungsund eyeland (Stenungsön) and pass by the magnificent forest villas of the richmen from the past, down to the Hawaii beach or even further to the magnificent Sundsby manour (Sundsby säteri) on the Mjörn island.

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That version takes two bridges, many village roads and around 20 km.

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Back in the harbour free books are given to young and adults from the library in the cultural centre, people enjoy their fika (Swedish coffee break) at the centre`s cafe or a glass of beer at the neighbouring pub with the beautiful sea view. The quiz will start soon and many groups of friends by the creative name, such as «Better without Martin» , prepare for the general knowledge competition. Soon the docks echo sound of summer songs from the radio and the voice of the quiz host as he reads the challenging questions («What is the Swedish word for porcupine?»)

Like a background wall and the ruler of the whole area, the huge shopping centre «Stenungstorg» rises with two many shops to count, an excellent shelter (and/or excuse) to run into on a heavy rainy day. A river of people flows from «classic» shops (clothes, shoes, books, children toys) to adventurous ones (Asian pedicure and manicure salon) until their stomachs take them for dinner in one of the centre`s restaurants. The day is slowly coming to an end, the sky changes its evening outfit colours and it is time for a good night rest, because there is so much more to experience the next day,


Text by Dragana Paulsen

Photos by Kjartan Ivar Paulsen and Dragana Paulsen

A bit more north: Dyrön and Klädesholmen


Southern wind sends sailing boats a bit more north and some of them end up on Dyrön (The Animal Island) in the Tjörn municipality. Both the North and the South harbour of this beautiful island are hosting many sailors every year. Sometimes some rainy days come along; some of Dyrön`s wooden walking paths lead straight to the “Sweden hottest sauna” that provides a good shelter from rain drops and cold waves.

South harbour at Dyron Dyron Path to Bastu

Otherwise sun shines through the dense Dyrön forest in the south- east where the lucky ones can catch a photo of wild sheep that reiside here. Others walk up and down the 5 km long rocky gorge Dyröleden and get amazing views of the Åstol island on the north-west side.

Dyrön view on Åstol

After a good bath on the neighbouring northern beach, visitors easily reach the southern parth of the island with a local shop and unforgettable house yards full of artistic details, that are a pure pleasure to the eye. There seem to be many artists that live here; as one looks for the directions to the local cave exhibition, an older gentleman with a painter hat passes by and enters one of those decorated houses. He probably lives there and creates art that speaks all the languages about life, time and all other things of priceless value.


It is hard not to visit Dyrön again, thinks a sailor as he sets course towards a little bit more north to see more of what Tjörn has to offer. And there it is! Densely built houses of Klädesholmen are welcoming the new guests to come and visit the local historical museum that tells a story about the hard life of fishermen and herring production in the past.

Herring production at Klädesholmen

Everyone that tasted famous Swedish dish, herring with potatoes, would probably look at the popular fish cans from another angle after visiting this place. The place where the harbour captain with his good black dog takes orders for the next day, when the hot bread and cinnamon rolls arrive to the harbour to end up on the breakfast tables.


As the wind hits the waves against the rocks and white foam covers the sea surface, the sunny hilltop view makes an ordinary man the owner of the world.


In the distance some sailors might dare to spite the wind and lift up the main sail. Someone might think they prayed before that – maybe in the quiet and cosy local church, the oldest one in Tjörn?


Text by Dragana Paulsen

Photos by Kjartan Ivar Paulsen

Pearls of Gothenburg Archipelago Röro, Källö Knippla


Family and animal-friendly oasis welcomes eyes and minds thirsty for some rest, bath, grill and good sunsets. Rörö`s spacious beaches echo laughter of young crab hunters and the surrounding long and beautiful coastal rock paths are conquered by the dilligent climbers. The view is rewarding and on the beautiful day the known picture is hanged up again on the horisont: white triangles on the sea – one more good sailing day.


The wind sends some violent guffs on the Rörö island, but then it is just a matter of skill of finding a good position between the rocks. No need to be unecessarily exposed to the wind, just like Don Juan taught Castaneda.:) Better to wait for still hours to reappear and then there will be time for a game of sand volleyball on the court nearby before the local gathering on the most popular place: barbecue booth. Coal is geting warm and meat and sticks spin as a reward for being so sporty during the day.


The ferry takes people and cars between Rörö and other neighbouring island pearls. On one of them, Källö Knippla, the local pizza and kebab restaurant serves match beer on football game evenings. The island`s lovely colourful houses are a paradise for eyes, with green mowns and gardens. Some of the tenants are specially lucky as being the owners of the bathing peers, from where the stairs lead further over the rocks with an amazing view. Othervise, it is just as fine to head for numerous public bathing places, that are often equiped with tables and benches for breakfast or grill meal.


Back in the harbour helpful and friendly young staff helps anyone with boat problem and the dogs lead their common barking dialogue. Mini golf, bowling and tennis players are busy with one more game and the brave sunbathers resist the wind by laying flat on their boats. Everyone is doing their job while the Scandinavian summer is in full swing.


Text by Dragana Paulsen

Photos by Kjartan and Dragana Paulsen